Cyprus or Bust

22 June 2022

The Journey Begins First Stop Mallorca.

Deb’s, Phillip and I Left Sant Carles Marina mainland Spain at 16:30 on the 18 June heading for Santa Ponsa, a bay on the south coast of Mallorca. The passage was a game of two half’s the first fantastic sailing the second bashing into metre waves with 20 knots of wind on the nose. When we went to furl away the genoa the furling line broke. Repair required. Now sat at anchor with beautiful weather and scenery waiting for the Ross, our last crew member for the big passage.

23 June 2022

Red Rain:

Bit of excitement last night with 30+ knots of wind. Spirit held firm but a few boats around us dragged. During the night it poured down with the dreaded red rain which comes up on the Sirocco winds from the Sahara Desert. Thankfully boat cleaning was on today’s job list. Looking at the weather for the next few days, next Tuesday offers the best wind conditions to head off to Sicily. Our last crew member, Ross, has arrived and is installed. Debs has flown home for a hospital appointment and will join us again later. We had an onboard BBQ last night with minimum alcohol. Head feels much better today.

27 June 2022

We Are Off!

After filling the diesel tanks to the brim at Santa Ponsa marina we headed round the south side of Mallorca across Palma Bay. Light winds but looking to get a bit lively in a few hours. Next stop Sicily all things being well. Estimated time of arrival Thursday evening. The winds wind picked up but we can’t sail south so are now heading for Sardinia. Sailing close hauled we are doing a steady 7.5 knots Long may it continue.

29 June 2022

A Very Eventful Passage.

A day into our passage we lost our auto pilot. I helmed whilst Phillip and Ross got the tools out and went deep into the bowls of the boat. Five hours later all fixed. Winds are good and sailed most of the passage on the Code 0 achieving over 10 knots. Furler for the Genoa jammed again but will wait until we are tied up before we have a look. Once we were offshore from Mallorca the winds picked up and we are now heading for Carloforte, a marina on the island of Pietro just of the coast of southern Sardinia. However, on arrival the winds were gusting over 20 knots so decided to head for a bay on the south coast of the island in a beautiful protected anchorage. We plan to go round to the marina tomorrow. G&T time.

30 June 2022

Calaforte:

Took advantage of the light winds this morning and upped anchor and went round to Calaforte marina. Parked and off to find a coffee and a croissant. Calaforte is a delightful Italian town, and we enjoyed a night out. It’s nice to be on terra firma.

1 July 2022

Another Eventful Sail:

We left Calaforte at 14:30 heading for an anchorage on southern Sardinia mainland. Due to a late departure, we tucked into a bay on the island of Sant Antioch and dropped the hook. Unfortunately, the furler line broke again and as we approached the anchorage, we dropped the sail by hand (like the old days) and lay it on the deck. 20 knots winds tonight so anchor watch in order. G&T built and looking forward to Ross’s BBQ tonight.

2 July 2022

The Big Trip:

Ross’s burger was mega. After a very windy evening with gusts well over 30Knots we have decided to strike straight for Sicily. We upped anchor at 09:30 and motored in very light winds just off the south coast of Sardinia. We motored for twenty hours then the wind picked up at 06:00 this. Time for the big boy (Code0). However, due to wind direction, this has meant yet another change of plan. We were hoping to go past the north coast of Sicily but the wind gods had other ideas. We are now headed for the west coast of Sicily to a group of islands called the Egadi’s. We hit 10.7 knots and averaged over 10 knots for several hours on the Big Boy sail. Then the wind died so we pulled into and anchorage at a bay called Sinda Passo on the island of Favignana. Tomorrow we will go to the north of the island to a small marina for refuelling. The rest of today will be R&R. Arrival G&T in order.

4 July 2022

Small Marina Chaos:

After an hour’s motor to the north side of the island we nosed into a very small marina with an even smaller fuel pontoon. Island day trippers, ferries and a raft of pleasure boats made the whole situation chaotic. Trying to hold station was challenging then the bow and stern thrusters simultaneously overheated. Due to a queue at the fuel dock, we were forced into a circular holding pattern weaving around the various craft testing my boat skills to the limit. After an hour wait it was our turn. Fuel tanks full we got going again for our next destination, an anchorage south coast of Sicily. Arriving at 19:30 after a perfect downwind sail we arrived and anchored just behind a small harbour wall. Phillip served nibbles with the arrival G&T. Paradise.

6 July 202

Running From The Storm:

After a blissful night on anchor, we decided to up the hook and go for it, nonstop to Greece. A rather nasty weather system was developing over the Ionian Sea which promised 40knt+ winds. It is due to arrive by Saturday. We have had to change our plans as the Corinth canal is closed and we need to go round the bottom part of Greece called the Peloponnese. We calculated with a fair wind we could outrun the storm and find a safe bay to ride out the worst of what it had to offer. Tanks full and optimism high, we set sail for a small port called Yithion (apparently the port of the old Spartan empire) tucked up in the middle finger of the bottom of the Peloponnese (the fork like land at the bottom of the country). We left Sicily at 10:00 on Tuesday and arrived at our destination Friday afternoon, a full 24 hours before armageddon. The sail was a peach with a bit of motoring time we made the best part of 200 miles per day with the Big Boy almost permanently deployed. We witnessed some stunning sunrise and sunsets. The storm is predicted to blow for two days so are earliest departure date for our destination, Athens, will be delayed to probably Sunday or Monday.

9 July 2022

A Night At Anchor:

Launched the dinghy (Thunderbird 4) and went into Yithion town last night for some Greek nosh and beer. The anchorage is very protected for swell but quite windy which is quite nice keeping the boat cool. Phillip checked on the anchor this morning and it is well buried. We have a scope of 5:1 so don’t think we are going anywhere. Not a great weather window for the next few days to get to Athens so going to hang out here for the time being. Can think of worse places. Met an Aussie last night called Digby who kindly drove me to a fuel station to fill the diesel jerrycans this morning. Full tanks again. Phillip also managed to find a chandlery and purchased a new furler line which we will fit before we depart. All coming together just need some favourable winds and we will be off.

10 July 2022

The Big Escape:

Yesterday afternoon our small but delightful anchorage was hit by a squall of 30Knots plus on a lee shore (non nautical this is very bad). Pleased to report the crew responded magnificently and we had up anchored and were getting the hell out of dodge within 5 minutes. We motored to the other side of the bay to a new anchorage which offered protection and glad we did. We are now in Plytra a fantastic anchorage surrounded by hills, beaches and most importantly tavernas. We took full advantage of our new situation and launched Thunderbird 4 and headed out for our best culinary experience yet, followed by more drinks onboard and Phillip doing his best to play a few tunes on the guitar. Got to bed gone three and now writing this with very sore head.

STOP PRESS 11 July 2022.......Up anchored and making a run for Athens as a wind called the Meltemi is forecasted to blow for five days. Should arrive in Athen’s midday tomorrow.

11 July 2022

Final Destination:

We upped anchor and making a run for Athens as a wind called the Meltemi is forecasted to blow for five days. We have arrived at a bay just south of Athens called Vouliagmeni at 04:30 and meandered our way through the super yachts into the bay. The anchorage offers good protection from the Meltemi which is due to arrive in the next 48 hours. Beautiful anchorage and we are nestled close inshore with yachts that could be the setting for “below deck”. Only big issue could be getting ashore as the whole bay is private beach clubs and hotels. Plan to stay here until the 17th and then book a marina berth in Athens for a few days awaiting the arrival of Debs, Emma and Harry. All is good.

12 July 2022

We Have Moved:

Due to not being able to dinghy ashore, combined with Phillip running out of rum, we decided to hop round to a new bay called Varis which offered a small harbour and a supermarket to restock on essentials (beer, wine, rum etc). On arrival we put down the hook in 5m over sand in a very nice bay with few boats so plenty of space, big difference to the Balearics. Phillip and I had another attempt to fix the Genoa but still no joy. We will have another go when less tired. We launched T4 and headed into town. The crew set off in search of “essentials” whilst the captain settled into a beach bar and had a cold one. We then decided to have a late lunch of kebabs and steak washed down with a couple or three carafes of the local vino. Back to the boat to catch the sun going down and a few more drinks listening to Phillip playing the blues. Paradise.

13 July 2022

Preparing For The Storm:

The meltemi has started to show her teeth. As I sit here penning the latest update, we have gusts of 30 knots plus and a cushion cover decided to go for a swim which was bravely rescued by Ross. This is just the start, and they are forecasting gusts of over 45Knots over the next 72 hours. Ross is leaving us tomorrow morning back to blighty assuming we can get him ashore. We have prepared Spirit as best we can, dropping the foresails, packed the bimini away, T4 is back in the garage and everything that can be tied down has been. With all our chain out and the anchor firmly buried in the sand we await our fate. Phillip is down below preparing the last super. As I sign off and maybe for the last time, please tell my wife and kids I love them.

16 July 2022

Big Night Out:

We saw gusts approaching 40Knots. The bay filled up with yachts looking for shelter. The holding here is excellent. The ground tackle is doing a brilliant job keeping us rooted to the seabed. Phillip just served dinner and now enjoying a beer listening to classical music. No inheritance yet kids. Going slowly stir crazy on the boat and as the winds have abated, we took the opportunity to put Bernard the big outboard on the back of the dinghy and made a quick dash into town for lashings of beer and, of course, kabab’s. Tiny Tim, the little outboard has died. Took it apart yesterday but no joy (need Pete’s mechanical skills). Back onboard and gone midnight we tucked into a few more drinks. Big mistake because as I write this my head is hurting and wish I never been born. Debs is arriving Monday with Emma and boyfriend Harry. Phillip is leaving Tuesday whilst sad I am looking forward to giving my kidneys a rest. Ross has already left and we miss his culinary skills and banter.

17 July 2022

Dad Dancing:

You think you would learn. After a successful day of various boat chores, the intrepid duo decided on another excursion into town for vital restock beers and Mataxa (local brandy for Phillip’s cocktails). After returning back to Spirit to restock the fridges we returned to town for dinner. Usual format, beers, kebab, beers back to boat more beers and cocktails. All went a bit pear shaped with fat boy slim on max volume at midnight we indulged in some very bad dad dancing. Head hurts again!

20 July 2022

New Crew:

Sadly we said goodbye to Phillip yesterday. Winds still gusting 30Knots and had a very wet dinghy journey to get Phillip ashore. New crew have arrived in the form of Debs, Emma my youngest daughter and her boyfriend Harry. The Meltemi is not giving up and has now been blowing for a good week. A bit of a pain to be honest and the BBQ is not being abused as much as it should be as the wind keeps blowing the flame out (GRRR). Anyway, our plans or spirit have not been dampened and we are hoping to up anchor tomorrow and head for a bay at the foot of Poseidon’s temple. Looking forward to climbing the hill looking at the old stuff then back down for a meat feast and a few beers at the local taverna. It will be good to stretch the legs on terra firma.

21 July 2022

At Last:

It looks like the meltemi has run out of puff. After some extensive sea trials in the tender the outboard has now sprung a fuel leak!!!! Oh well joys of sailing I guess. On the tools tomorrow before we depart for the temple of Poseidon. With the light wind we have managed to get a couple of trips ashore. Restocked the larder and 20ltrs of fuel for the now very thirsty outboard. Varkiza is a very pretty town at night and as I pen this the new crew and I are enjoying a beer at a bar on the sea front. I have been here a long time now and looking forward to escaping tomorrow. Next update will be from the birthplace of the greatest Greek god Poseidon (I hope).

22 July 2022

Arrived And Problems:

Up anchored at 11:00 to head to our destination, the temple of Poseidon. Very light winds and time to get the big boy out. Sailed for approximately 30 mins and wind disappeared completely (can’t believe it!). Engine on and set course to go and see the big guy’s home. Then rudder feedback failed shortly by gps position. Got back gps back but AP rudder data caput. Going to get Emma into the tech area tomorrow with a box of tools to see if we can fix. Anyway, arrived at Sounio, a bay at the base of the temple. The anchorage is very crowded and the line-up of boats entering the bay was like flights into Heathrow. Managed to nab a nice spot on the west side of the bay and got out the G&T’s. We decided to go ashore and hike to the temple. Really annoyingly the only place you can get a dinghy ashore is the opposite side of the bay. Not disheartened we parked T4 on the beach and headed off. So pleased we did as the temple was awesome and the views something else. Obviously, a few beer stops both there and on the way back.

24 July 2020

Weird Day:

I got up early armed with tools to fix the issues we had yesterday. After rebooting all the systems hey presto all working. Wind gusting 20 knots, we up anchored and headed out towards Kithnos. A real passage of two halves. After leaving the bay wind died and we got the big boy out doing 5Knots in 10Knots. Then suddenly we were in a constant 30Knots with a reefed main to help us along. We had caught up with the Meltemi again!!! The seas built and we were in a real blow all the way to our next anchorage. Crew did brilliantly in some tough conditions. Anchored in a lovely bay on the north west side of the island which has now filled with all shapes and sizes of floating plastic. Arrival G&Ts all round and a trip ashore to a very reassuringly expensive restaurant. The bay is split into two half’s by a sand bar and no issue on parking T4. With a “Doods” bar at one end we had a beers and a cocktail for Debs. Then off to the restaurant on the edge of a cliff overlooking the bay. Great meal washed down with a bottle of Prosecco.

25 July 2022

Interesting Day:

When we awoke we were hemmed in on all quarters. Never seen an anchorage so crammed. Managed to get the anchor up but bumped a boat directly behind us to receive a barrage of abuse from an irate lady skipper. No damage done except to my pride we left the bay and headed to Serphos, an island due south. I downloaded all the latest grib files on Predict Wind and the worst we could expect was a lovely 16k knots of northerlies. We got 5 knots then rounded island and got 30+ knots.! These Greek winds are bonkers. As we motored south all systems failed again and had to hand helm for the next two hours. Anyway, motored our way to a southern bay on Serphos that the pilot book promised to offer protection against the Meltemi and were confronted, again by gusts well over 30Knots as we entered the anchorage. Who writes these books? Got the anchor down on the second attempt and let out loads of chain. Wind blowing 20 knots + continually Debs spotted a couple of kids in trouble being blown offshore on their paddle board. T4, Emma and I to the rescue. We picked the kids up and their mum who was bravely swimming out to get them.

STOP PRESS......Trying to leave for Paros but winds in bay gusting 40Knots so who knows what it be like out at sea. Lots of boats dragging mayhem all round. We are holding firm on our anchor.

26 July 2022

Baptism Of Fire:

We decided to go for it. We upped anchor and headed out into the churning cauldron. Winds gusting well over 30Knots we set a heading to Paros. Like all passages there were good bits and bad bits.

The bad bits:

1 Auto pilot lasted about 30 minutes followed by 6 hours of hand helming.

2 The breeze very quickly built to a constant 30 knots with a side on 3 metre sea.

3 Steering suddenly became very stiff about 2 hours from Paros which required an examination of all the steering systems whilst being hurled from side to side. Crew handled the situation brilliantly.

The good bits.

1 We are alive

2 Arrival at a beautiful, protected bay on the north side of the island.

3 Got the tools out first thing next morning and fixed everything.

I am starting to understand that sailing is a mass of highs and lows. As long as the highs exceed the lows we carry on. So far, I have a score draw but the good thing is I am learning my boat from inside out. Becky, my middle daughter arrived yesterday and stayed in a hotel for the night.

Images 124 – 127

27 July 2022

An Ordinary But Beautiful Day:

After an early start and managing to fix everything, I dropped Emma and Harry ashore to an awaiting taxi to go and spend a day with Becky in the main town of Parikia. Debs and I prepared the boat for Becky’s arrival which included sponging out several bilges from yesterday’s sail. All clean and ready to go I picked the kids up from the beach which is very dinghy friendly. Back onboard we had a fine BBQ washed down with the local red wine which, whilst cheap, is not bad. A big bummer was that we lost the swimming ladder which must have launched off the back of Spirit from a wake from the many super yachts in this bay. Hey ho. Off tomorrow to anchor in Parikia which is the main port to catch the ferry back to Athens in preparation for Emma’s and Harry’s departure and the arrival of the next bunch of guests, a couple of friends of Becky. Once there and securely anchored we might get the ferry over to Anti Paros for a last super for our fantastic crew before their return to the UK. All in all, nothing much to report.

28 July 2022

A Sail With All Systems Working:

Harry found the ladder! Using a grapnel dinghy hook we managed to get it back onboard. After Harry’s heroics this morning saving me £400 in the process, we moved bays down the coast of Paros to Parikia the main port and anchored in delightful bay just outside the breakwater. I am very pleased to report all systems worked as designed and without incident at least for 2 hours duration of the trip. Arrival beer in order then a siesta. Harry and Emma took T4 ashore with the accumulation of a week’s rubbish and I got out the deck sun cushions for the first time. We plan to stay here for a few days. We left at 17:00 to go and find some bars and a restaurant. Winds 14 knots and we are anchored in 6m of sand with 35m of chain. Spirit is safe for a few hours. This is Emma’s and Harry’s last night they are off first thing. We walked the sea front and found a nice bar where the ladies enjoyed cocktails and the men big beers. We found a restaurant that had a good selection of vegan dishes, so Emma & Harry sorted. Several karafs of wine later back to the boat for a relatively early night.

28 July 2022

New Crew:

Harry and Emma left 10:30 this morning and 20:00 hours the new crew arrived, John and “not our Hayley - NOH so not to confuse with our eldest daughter who is also called Hayley” who are friends of Becky from London. Becky has mastered the controls of T4 and collected them from the ferry terminal. BBQ, beers and a late-night dip the new crew settled down on the “Bunny Deck” until the early hours. Looking forward to a few days R&R. Took the opportunity of the down time to soak the sheets (lines that control the sails not bed ones) in fresh water which were becoming very stiff from excessive dowsing in salt water. Will try and fix the Genoa over the next few days along with a few other jobs. Nice not to be on a schedule.

30 July 2022

Broken Again!:

Found a chandler in town and bought 30m of furling line and a new latch for T4’s locker. Uneventful day of doing boat jobs and a nice BBQ in the evening. Becky and John wanted to have a last beer at a beach bar on the opposite side of the bay so I thought I would join them. On our return a warning alarm went off. The main MFD at the chart table had failed which manages all the shipd electrical systems including the navigation and gps. The helm MFD still working but with no position or charts. I downloaded two Navionics app,’s to my tablet and the charts from here to Turkey. Will talk to Clipper on Monday but my guess is the unit is dead.

31 July 2022

Nice Day:

After spending most of the morning downloading charts to my two tablets we headed off into town. Replenished my gas for the all-important BBQ from the local chandler and went to find what apparently is one of the oldest and best preserved chapels in the Aegean. Quick lunch followed by a deeply religious experience visiting the chapel. Back to the boat for G&Ts and another BBQ. Also did not know we have a potential Tom Daley in the crew, John is a very good diver. Dropped crew back ashore who wanted to go clubbing at “Dublins” for a bit of drum and base. They have a midnight curfew for return water taxi. I managed to reconfigure the helm display to become the master terminal pointing all data sources to it including gps. Swapped the chart card over and hey presto all systems back online. Happy camper.

1 Aug 2022

Day Of Highs & Lows:

After fixing the navigation system I felt invigorated and decidedly tackle the broken Furlex. New furler line in hand I wiggled my way into the anchor locker to access the furler. Taking apart the system upside down in 30 degrees heat was not fun. Three hours later and a trip to the local chandler for some new bolts I eventually fixed the furler and wound on the new line. However, a broken deck fitting will need to be replaced before I can test. Just when you think you are ahead of the game two more problems manifested themselves just as I was putting the tools away. We have a blocked heads and one of the shower pumps packed up. It’s never ending. On the upside we were visited by a turtle for about an hour and got some great pics. Back on the tools tomorrow.

3 Aug 2022

Another Day In Paradise:

After a boozy night in town watching a local Greek tribute band we slept until midday, what a treat. Crew went ashore for lunch. Solar generation working well but needs management. I ran the generator for a couple of hours yesterday for the first time in 5 days. Batteries normally restored by midday then decide what you want to do with the surplus power. Run the water maker, washing machine, air conditioning etc etc. It is not man enough to run all at the same time. Another BBQ and an art drawing session on board, a bit random but fun. Need to get on with the jobs tomorrow. A new Meltemi on the way promising 30+ knots of wind.

5 Aug 2022

Maintenance Day & MOB:

An early start crew and Debs went ashore to restock the booze fridge and get some more food for the BBQ. I set about looking at the shower pump, heads leak and blockage. After dismantling the shower pump the arm attaching the diaphragm was broken. Need a new pump. Managed to reduce the leak on the one working heads the other is completely blocked. Repaired the latch on T4 and gave her a new set of dinghy fenders. Took Becky and John to a beach bar and left them there for three hours, big mistake! Hayley stayed on board to master jumping off the bow. On collection it was obvious that many cocktails had been consumed and as Becky casual stepped into T4 she lost her balance and gracefully fell into the water gadgets and all. Our first non-intentional MOB. Safely back on board we fired up the BBQ and enjoyed kebabs and salad.

7 Aug 2022

Trip Ashore:

Debs and I managed to get ashore and do some exploring rather than usual alcohol and BBQ run. We walked all through the old town of winding streets and boutiques. Crew wanted Italian for lunch, and we found a delightful restaurant right on the beach for pizza and beer. Earlier that day I noticed that our bowsprit was loose so I persuaded John to go into the chain locker this time due to his diminutive stature, armed with a spanner he tightened all the bowsprit bolts and now solid as a rock, top chap. Job done Becky and John booked into a hostel for thy night so they could go clubbing as I had refused to pick them up at four in the morning (nasty dad). Anyway, all in all a very nice day and at last I am experiencing the Greece I remember from my youth.

8 Aug 2022

Cleaning Day:

A late start Hayley and I decided to give Spirit a deep external clean. Buckets and brushes at the ready we set to giving the old girl a good scrubbing. Two hours later she looks as if she has just left the factory. Work done we headed over to the beach bar for some very expensive beer (8 euros for a small bottle!!). After the crew had lunch at the bar we headed back to Spirit for the usual sundowners and BBQ. Crew then headed off to shore for some more alcoholic abuse. Debs and I had a nice restful evening on board watching the anchoring entertainment around us. Very large charter cat (67 foot) dropped very close to us but I guess they know what they are doing. Tomorrow fuel run to replenish the tanks. Solar holding up well and have not needed the generator for six days. I have developed a schedule for power management ie water production one day, followed by water heating the next, then washing machine etc etc. This seems to work well and uses up the surplus power from the panels.

9 Aug 2022

Billy No Mates:

After a reassuringly expensive dining experience with Debs last night in one of Paros’s garden restaurants we all went ashore for a final lunch before the crews departure tomorrow. I am then home alone. I had arranged for someone to help me take Spirit to Turkey but they texted me yesterday to say they were no longer available. Bloody annoying. Faced with solo sailing, I texted Ross on the off chance he was free. Thankfully he agreed to help with the final leg. Arriving Thursday to start island hoping to Marmaris. I persuaded the crew to go round and clean all the hull windows whilst I did the deck hatches. One more trip ashore for a final beer and to say goodbye to Debs and the crew. Sorry to lose them and Paros has been a great place to stop for the past two weeks. Tomorrow I will do final preparation work for the next phase of the adventure and await the arrival of Ross.

10 Aug 2022

Preparing The Boat:

Today was a day of cleaning and tidying up along with a number of small maintenance jobs ie replacing filters on the water maker. Not a lot to report. Wind picked up mid-afternoon but as I write this, glass of wine in hand, we have flat seas and gentle 5 knots of breeze. Home alone BBQ this evening with lots of hot piri piri sauce to keep me regular. Beautiful sunset as usual. More chores tomorrow including a mega session with the washing machine. Forecast for the next few days looks fantastic for our sail to Turkey. Big boy all the way. Debs arrived in Athens safely and visited the acropolis with Becky and John.

Images 171 – 173

12 Aug 2022

Ross Has Arrived:

Ross is officially on board. On arrival we took T4 ashore and I took Ross to my favourite restaurant and then did a tour of the streets around the town. Back on board we had a final sundowner and off to bed. Following day up earlyish to prepare Spirit for the next leg. T4 in the garage we headed off for Nixos. As soon as we were out of the anchorage we were confronted with 2m swells and 20+ knots of winds. Six hours later in 3m plus waves and a gust that hit 37 knots we tucked into a anchorage on the southern tip of Nixos where we demolished a couple of bottles of red wine after the customary arrival G&T followed by a kabab BBQ and more wine. Got to bed at two in the morning. We left at 12:00 with sore heads, out into a steady 25 knots and 3m plus waves to the next anchorage, a small island on the western tip of Armagos. Traditional arrival G&Ts served. The bay is now deserted. Just had an amazing pork steak and watched the sun go down. All good and no major boat malfunctions. Early start tomorrow.

14 Aug 2022

Last Night in Greece:

Up early to do our last passage to a Greek island, Kos. The bay we stayed in offered perfect protection with no swell and was not in the pilot book. Tut tut Mr Heikell. What a difference 24 hours can make, calm seas and a gentle breeze. We motored for four hours then the breeze picked up and we deployed the Big Boy and did a respectable 6 Knots with 15 Knots of breeze of our stern quarter. As we approached Kos the wind died, and we put away Big Boy and turned on the motor. Forty minutes later we were anchored just off the breakwater at Kamari on Kos. The town is not like Paros and quite ugly and the bay is busy with anchored boats. Arrival G&Ts served I took the Big Boy furler line off and gave it an overnight soak in fresh water. Ross prepared dinner, a couple of large burgers and salad, whilst I checked the bilges and investigated a squeak from the prop shaft which has been getting more noticeable. Joy! Next stop Dacha in Turkey to meet up with David & Tina.

15 Aug 2022

Goodbye Greece Hello Turkey (& Tina And David):

Up at 8 to investigate the squeaky prop shaft. Checked the stern gland water feed and all seems OK. Ross thinks it’s a lose panel but I am concerned it may the cutlass bearing. Further investigation required. We upped the hook at 10:30 and headed out of the bay. After we cleared the headland, we deployed Big Boy and the main and set up a goose wing configuration and the auto pilot to wind setting. Steady 5 to 6 knots in a perfect sea state. It does not get better. On the boarder of Greece and Turkey we changed the courtesy flag, put away the Greek pilot guide and out with the Turkish one. Big Boy remained up for most of the 35 mile journey and we saw a top speed of over 9 knots. When we arrived at Datcha wind gusts were over 25 Knots and we were met by David in his dinghy to show us where to anchor. Great service. We parked right next door to Big Sky and David joined us for the customary G&Ts and then the beer fridge. Tina has kindly invited us board tonight for dinner.

17 Aug 2022

First Day In Turkey:

After what can only be described as very boozy night ending after two in the morning plans to depart early the following day were scrapped. Tina invited us back to Big Sky for bacon sandwiches and we decided to spend the day in Datcha and go ashore to restock the fridges. Nice town not as pretty as Paros but attractive non the less. It was nice to stretch the legs. Had lunch in a taverna next to the beach then off to find a local mobile shop to buy a dongle and a SIM card as I am being charged £6 per day on my current plan with Vodafone when we crossed from Greece to Turkey. David was not happy with the deal locally, so we deferred the purchase until we get to Marmaris. Supermarket next to restock the severely dented alcohol supplies from the previous evening. Back to the David’s dinghy and the engine would not start. Managed to get it going and David and I went back to Spirit to off load the shopping only for the outboard to die again. We refilled the tank and got the air out of the fuel line, and all worked again.

21 Aug 2022

Another Failure:

We left Dacha at 9:00 to head for our next stop at Ciftlik. After getting the anchor up the windlass decided to stop working. After investigation I discovered the fuse had blown and I don’t have a spare on board. Note to self, get some spares!!! After removing the fuse, I used seizing wire as a temporary solution and got the windlass working. Phew!!! We buddy boat with David & Tina along the coast making sure we kept out of Greek territorial waters. We had a short overnight stay in Ciftlik where we tied up alongside a pontoon (very unusual). Following day, we headed to the customs dock at Marmaris to be met by Bruno our formalities agent that David recommended. A very helpful guy called Omar also met us on route to the dock and dropped of some replacement fuses for the windlass in his rib. Excellent service. Omar is also going to do several other jobs whilst we are here so hopefully when we leave, Spirit will be in tiptop condition. The customs dock was half the length of Spirit and with a very lively wind made docking interesting. Once anchored in the bay we collected Debbie from the beach who had arrived in Turkey a few hours earlier. It’s good to have her back onboard.

24 Aug 2022

Ross Leaves & Rigging Nightmare:

Ross returned to the UK after spending a couple of nights on Jeff’s boat. Sad to see him go and I have asked if he could return to do the final leg with me to Cyprus as Debbie has to return to the UK on the 9th September. Fingers crossed. Been at anchored now for four days popping into the marina for shopping and taking advantage of the excellent food in the restaurant. The rigger came out to Spirit today to have a look at the forestay and the furler system. He also went up the mast to have a look at the rest of my rigging. He has found some bad corrosion in the port side shroud which needs immediate attention. This can only be done in the marina so tomorrow we will up anchor and head in. The list of jobs is getting longer but decided to get the work done here where they have the right skills. David & Tina came over last night for a fine steak dinner washed down with the last of my Greek wine. Had a long chat with Peter, which is the name of the guy with the art installation boat.

27 Aug 2022

Boar, On Our Own, Sail Bags:

Malcolm, David and Jeff left for Chiflik for the weekend. We had no outboards which were being services. They are being delivered back midday. We decided not to join the posse and instead catch a cab into Marmaris to collect a couple of bags we have had made to house our shorelines. Good news is they are starting work on the boat on Monday which should be completed by next weekend. We asked Peter if he wanted anything and only water was his request. Whilst in Marmaris we visited the souk and purchased various genuine fakes and picked up the sail bags. After shopping we went to my favourite burger bar for dinner and beers. It’s nice having an outboard back for the independence and not relying on others for lifts. We dropped off Peters water and back on board we decided to re-anchor as we have been very close to Peter in certain wind directions. In a perfect position now and off to the chandlers this morning to spend more of the kid’s inheritance. We saw, for the first time, the infamous wild boar that are a feature of this area of Turkey.

The Plan:

We have 350 miles to go so the plan is to get Spirit fixed by next weekend then day sails in an easterly direction around the Turkish coast. I am finding it difficult to get crew to replace Debs who is returning to the UK 9th Sept. I may go to a marina or hang on the hook until she returns. We aim to get to Cyprus by the 23rd of September to prepare the boat for the kids return in October and get a feel for area.

30 Aug 2022

Repairs & Upgrades:

After a weekend clearing out lockers and cleaning fenders and a very grubby T4, the work started in earnest yesterday with all heads now operational and shower pump pumping. Omar, the local contractor, has also fitted a freshwater outlet so the I can give Spirit a good wash whilst on the hook. Riggers turned up today and cleaned and tuned the rig and serviced the furler. Genoa will go back on tomorrow which will give me a full complement of flappy stuff. After they left, Debs and I went ashore for a late lunch and some shopping. We are throwing a BBQ party tomorrow night and the boat is like a building site. Big tidy up tomorrow. Electricians on tomorrow to fit various new stuff. Getting there slowly but where we are is quite beautiful so don’t mind.

31 Aug 2022

Cleaning Day & BBQ:

With the newly installed deck wash fitting I spent the day giving Spirit a bloody good clean. Power washed the Grp, vinegar solution on the hatches and windows, rust treatment on all the bright work then a polish. She looks like she has just left the factory. David & Tina came over and helped putting the foresail back on and pleased to report the furler worked perfectly. Local engineers turned up and serviced the main engine and generator. Have to say they took real pride in their work and never known such clean and tidy engineers. Having a big BBQ tonight for the boaters in the bay who we have met. Suspect it is going to get messy. Debs deep cleaned below deck whilst I worked above. Off for a shower now as a bit smelly.

10 Sept 2022

Partying, Retail Therapy, Formalities & New Crew:

As predicted the BBQ turned into a night of loud music and some strange dancing. Last guest left after two in the morning. With a sore head, Debs and I went ashore the following morning to obtain a blue card which is a Turkish requirement for the pumping out of the black water tanks (sewage tanks for the non-nautical). The process was very simple and 10 minutes later Spirit’s certificate was issued. In Turkey you are not allowed to empty your tanks in the sea and have to get them pumped out every 14 days which is a bit of a pain, but the waters are crystal clear as a result. David and Tina through return party on Big Sky which again got messy with me going overboard when getting into T4 to go home. Debs is going back to England on Friday for a week. We have new crew joining, Gat, a French lady who is an ex-delivery skipper to help while Debs is away and will stay with us until we get to Cyprus. Debs and the girls went to the market for some more retail therapy.

13 Sept 2022

More Partying, Curry, Refuel & a Sail:

David discovered that Marmaris has an Indian restaurant so without hesitation as I am suffering from curry withdrawal symptoms we headed off for a vindaloo. Not quite UK standards but not bad. Malcolm and Cath invited us and the rest of us over to his trawler motorboat for more excessive drinking and dancing. Great fun. Deb left on Friday morning and Gat arrived later the same day. She has formidable experience with over 50,000 miles under her belt. Sunday morning, we upped anchor and motored with Big Sky over to Netsel marina in Marmaris, for a refuel and black water pump out. We decided to then head off to a new bay opposite a seaside town called Icmeler. We even managed to get the Big Boy sail out for part of the journey. The bay and the town are very pretty and offers a plethora of restaurants and bars. The bay is very deep, and I have played out all my chain and rode for the first time. Icmeler has a very pretty canal system which we go up to tie the dinghies. Noel, one of the boaters we have met, arrived later on his CNB 60 a very impressive super yacht. Back to Marmaris tomorrow to meet Debs who is returning from the UK.

19 Sept 2022

Warships, No Space, Beautiful Creek:

With Debs back onboard we left Marmaris at 10:30. Dinghy stowed and making 8 knots towards St Nicholas Island for our first stop. Did a fly by around the bay to the sounds of “we’ll meet again” by dame Vera Lynn on full blast. Then onto Kas tomorrow to check out of Turkey. Hope to have interweb to watch the funeral. RIP Lizzie. The passage to St Nicholas Island is a 6-hour journey east. However, after leaving the bay a coast guard boat stopped us and said we had to sail due south as a Turkish Navy military exercise was underway where we wanted to sail. As this was in the wrong direction, we decided to cut the engine and drift as we were informed it would end at 1pm. Watching the 12 Turkish war ships and submarines doing their manoeuvres for about an hour the coast guard returned and insisted we head south. By the time we were allowed to get back on course we were 10 miles further from our destination and running out of daylight. Pedal to the metal we set off again. We arrived at the St Nicholas Bay to find it rammed so decided to carry on to another bay called Kalevezi. We were very pleased that we did as there was a small creek just in the north west of the bay with a restaurant which if you ate there you could park for the night. A very nice lad in a skiff took our lines ashore and helped park Spirit in a very tight corner of the bay.

20 Sept 2022

We arrived in Kas marina and decided to take a berth for a couple of nights. This is only the second marina we have used since leaving Spain and we thought we would treat ourselves. The marina is very tidy but eye wateringly expensive. Lots of bars and the town of Kas is a short taxi ride away. On preparing to leave the following day we discovered we had no wind instruments. A call to Omar and an engineer was dispatched to Kas from Marmaris. We hoisted him up the mast with a new head unit and I am pleased to report, all working again. However, we have missed our weather window as a big blow is coming in over the next couple of days. It did not disappoint.

22 Sept 2022

Customs, Fuel, Escape The Meltemi:

We left the marina at 9:30 sharp as the winds were gusting 20 knots, any more would have made our exit difficult. Pleased we did as by the time we reached the fuel doc we had a steady 25 knots pining us to the key. Crew did a great job tying us up and we recharged the tanks. Went to the customs office which was just across from the fuel dock and completed our checkout formalities. With the wind beam on squeezing the living daylight out of my fenders I thought I would need to spring off from the dock. However, I tried to see if my stern thruster was man enough to get the blunt end pointing to wind and pleased to report that it was. It did complain as an overheating warning kept coming up. The anchorage just outside the marina was getting the full brunt of the Meltemi with 30 knots gusts and was also very crowded. I saw on the charts a small bay about quarter of a mile away that look like it would offer good protection. We nosed over to the bay and no boats were anchored so we dumped the hook. However, tranquillity was soon shattered as the wind changed direction and we started to drag. No problem up anchor and reset. As the anchor came up it had snagged a bloody great chain at least twice the size of ours. Valiant effort by the crew could not shift it. I put a call into the marina and a marinero came to our rescue in the nick of time as I battled to keep Spirit from washing up on the shore. Free from chain we decided to head out of the bay to another one that promised better shelter. Once we cleared our bay the sea where simply huge so no an option. We turned back and went down to the far end of the bay to see if we could get a spot. We are now anchored in 17m of water with all my 60m of chain out. Not enough I hear you say but it’s all I’ve got. Holding so far. Anchor watch all day unfortunately. As I type this wind gusts are over 35Knots. The Meltemi seems to be chasing us everywhere we go. All part of the learning experience I suppose.

23 Sept 2022

More Bad Luck:

We all got up early with intention of leaving at 6am after a night of gusts at our new anchorage of over 35Knots. Spirit held firm but we kept an anchor watch until 10:30pm when the winds abated. When we went to retrieve the anchor we had caught a sunken buoy which blew the windlass fuse. No spare and stuck. What’s the odds of getting your anchor fouled twice in 24 hours? I improvised by running a line through a block on the mid cleat to the winch to see if we could pull our anchor free. Partial success but we had the sunken buoy and all its line attached. Gat heroically leant over the bow and cut through the line. We were free! However, we had 30m of chain on the deck. I called someone we me earlier in the week, Alan, who has a boat at Kas marina. He went to the chandlery and secured us a new fuse. We went back to the fuel dock to meet Alan and the fuse and ten minutes later it was fitted and we put the chain back in the locker. We are at last on our final leg to Cyprus. As we left the Kas bay we were met by some very nice winds and the start of our two night journey to Karpaz gate was underway. However, our late departure would mean the weather system I had been trying to avoid would catch us. At least the crew were pleased we were off again.

24 Sept 2022

Journeys End:

We knew we were getting close to Cyprus when a Yellow Wagtail set up camp on Debbie’s shoulder. The entrance into the marina was simple and they sent a rib out to meet us and to show us where to more up. We arrived at Karpaz Gate marina on the 24 Sept at 19:30 and tied up on to the customs dock. We had big seas and wind for most of the second part of the journey from Kas and we were all knackered but pleased to have made it. We had sailed nearly 2,000 nautical miles since leaving Spain. The trip had its highs and lows, most of those being issues with the boat. However, we overcame our challenges and arrived safely at our destination. Where to next?